It’s possible to visit Périgord even without a car! In this touristic region, which covers the département Dordogne, there are plenty of opportunities for cycling.
When I was planning my weekend tour in Périgord Noir by bike, I was looking for an itinerary that would allow me to immerse myself in the département‘s natural, historical and gastronomic heritage. I found what I was looking for when I leafed through a Lonely Planet guide that suggested a low-carbon trip combining train and bike.
What is the itinerary? How should you prepare? What are the main places of interest along the route?
The itinerary of my cycling tour in Dordogne
Day 1
I set off from Bergerac on the Voie Verte V91 cycle route, which links Prigonrieux to Mauzac. Riding on the tarmac road, which is almost always flat, is a great way to warm up. The route runs alongside the Dordogne River, surrounded by lush green vegetation.
After reaching the Tuilières dam and the Lalinde canal, I headed back to Bergerac. After a 1-hour ride by regional train, I was in Sarlat, the capital of the Périgord Noir.
I got back in the saddle and set off on another Voie Verte bike path, the one to Cazoulès. Over a distance of just 23 km, you can admire rural landscapes of walnut trees and wheat fields, buildings dating back to the Middle Ages and the Dordogne valley. The route passes through 3 small riverside villages: Calviac, Rouffillac then Peyrillac et Millac.
At the end of the day, I left the Voie Verte to spend the night a few hundred meters away, on the banks of the Dordogne River.
Day 2
This weekend cycling tour in Dordogne also includes the Flow Vélo, a 400 km cycling route linking Sarlat to Ile d’Aix in Charente-Maritime. The first section links the capital of Périgord Noir with Le Lardin-Saint-Lazare.
Leaving Sarlat, the road climbs steeply. The reward: golden fields and magnificent hilly countryside. I saw very few cars on this road. Maybe that’s because I was there on a Sunday?
When you leave it, the gravel part starts. The path runs through forests and fields. Remember to look out for the Flow Vélo signs, as it’s easy to take the wrong route. That’s what happened to me, and I reached Terrasson-Lavilledieu via a footpath that was hardly practicable by bike. If you follow the route without detouring, you’ll reach Le Lardin-Saint-Lazare and then ride for 25 minutes to your destination.
How to get there by train?
Regional trains run between Bordeaux and Bergerac in around 1 hour 15 minutes. You can take your bike on board at no extra charge and without booking, but bike seats might not be available anymore. As a general rule, there are 6 seats per train.
From Paris, take the fast train TGV to Bordeaux or Libourne, then take the regional train to Bergerac. Remember to book a bicycle seat on the TGV, which costs extra.
On the return journey, take the regional train direct from Terrasson-Lavilledieu to Bordeaux, or change trains at Périgueux. Allow between 2 hours and 2 hours 30 minutes for the journey.
Which bike?
This cycling tour in Dordogne was the first time I tried out my new trekking bike, the Endeavour 18 from Kalkhoff. I can confirm that a trekking bike is a good choice.
You can also opt for a gravel bike, which offers a sportier ride and makes it easier to negotiate the climbs. However, forget using a road bike, as it’d be impossible to ride the dirt roads of the Flow Vélo.
If you don’t have a suitable bike, or if you prefer not to take your bike on the train, you can rent one in Bergerac. In this case, you will have to travel back to your point of departure by train, in order to return the bike.
What is the best time to do a cycling tour in Dordogne?
This trip must be possible all year round, although it can be very hot in July and August. The best times are spring and late summer.
Where to sleep? Where to eat?
There are several campsites close to the Sarlat Voie Verte bike path. If you prefer to bivouac to immerse yourself in nature, allow time at the end of the day to find a suitable site. I have to admit that I had trouble finding a place to pitch my tent. Either the area was too close from the houses or the dense vegetation made it impossible to set up.
What about food? Périgord cuisine is particularly fond of duck meat. Cèpes mushrooms are another great typical food for Dordogne. In Bergerac, Aux Cèpes enchantés restaurant serves these specialties in all their forms: grilled cèpes, cèpes sauce, confit, magret, entrecôte, etc. The wines of the Bergerac region are also renowned, with around ten appellations to choose from.
If you want to take a break along the Sarlat Voie Verte, the Café-Resto de la Gare Robert Doisneau is ideally located.
The main points of interest
This weekend cycling tour in Dordogne is an ideal way to discover the cultural, natural and gastronomic heritage of Périgord.
Bergerac
Go to the Quai Cyrano tourist office, located near the banks of the Dordogne River in the center of the town. On the quayside, you can admire a gabarre, a boat that used to unload goods, particularly wine, in the port. The tourist office offers a tour of the town’s attractions.
I enjoyed wandering aimlessly through the narrow streets of the old town. Half-timbered houses dating back to the Middle Ages are still visible.
Tuilières dam
Located around 14 km from Bergerac, the Tuilières dam on the Dordogne River can be reached via the Voie Verte V91 bike path. Built in 1909, it’s still in operation. You can visit the EDF area (France’s national electricity provider) and the fish lift.
Crossing the bridge, you reach the fascinating locks and then the Lalinde canal, which has been decommissioned. You can walk along the canal on the old towpath, learning more about its construction on the information panels.
Sarlat
Sarlat is a magnificent historic town. Its conservation area has the highest density of listed buildings in the world. The tourist office offers a 6 km walk through the town. This route takes you past buildings from a variety of periods, and is an ideal way to understand how the town has evolved over the centuries.
Robert Doisneau station
It’s a pleasant surprise, nestling on the edge of Sarlat Voie Verte. La Gare Robert Doisneau (in French) is a place dedicated to the French photographer. It is located here, in the former Carlux station, because Doisneau spent several holidays in the Dordogne valley. There is a photo gallery showing his first holiday here, in 1937, as well as shots of local life.
The banks of the Dordogne River
Whether near Bergerac or Sarlat, I really enjoyed the views over the quiet river.
The green hills lining the river near the Sarlat Voie Verte are magnificent. Admire the walnut trees, a typical Périgord tree, and the wheat fields. Weather permitting, there are several beaches where you can go swimming, for example in Rouffillac and Carlux.
